It's been quite a while since I 've covered any new territory during my periodic Manhattan mini-treks, but, today, I again heeded impulse and intuition, with wonderful results. The express bus enters midtown at E. 23rd St., and normally I'll get off at 23rd & Park, grab something to eat, then head to Madison Square Park for a while, before strolling down Broadway, maybe stopping at ABC Carpet to ogle (and occasionally purchase) the various Buddhist and Hindu doodads. This is usually followed by a stop at the Union Square Barnes & Noble, then some more park-sitting time in the always-jumping Union Square (I"ve heard more than one person say it feels like the true heart of the city, which may largely be because of the way all the various subway lines and other modes of transportation from all five boros converge around there.) Perhaps I'll poke my head into Filene's Basement and Whole Foods, before hitting East West Books, which I often view as the central goal of my little journey.
Today, as the bus snaked up the FDR Drive and I admired the long stretch of waterfront park on the east side, realizing I'd
never been in that park, I decided to get off at 23rd and 1st and head to the river to check it out. Right decision. What I found, what I've often craved, and which is in such short supply in this town, is open space and solitude. There's a nifty little park right between 23rd and 18th along the East River called Stuyvesant Cove, and it's got a deliciously rustic feel. There are benches angled all along for perfect waterfront views, as well as a bike path between the park and the highway, but what's especially lovely is the little wooded paths alongside the open waterfront path. Small groves of trees hide soft winding paths padded with wood chips, and every so often one comes upon a little covered gazebo with a series of benches arranged in a U shape, well shaded both by the roof and by tree cover, yet allowing a partial view of the water. What a sweet secret summer delight! I just sat there lost in a pleasant reverie, feeling too lazy in the sultry humid June afternoon to even crack my book open, but absolutely saturated in subtle bliss. Stuyvesant Cove was by no means deserted, but interestingly, every one there seemed to have a similar mission to mine - to obtain soul-nourishing solitude and natural beauty in the midst of urban chaos. It's moments like these when I really feel appreciation for urban planning; someone in a government office building sat down at their drafting table (or more likely comptuer, nowadays) and lovingly crafted this soul-enriching spot. Thank you, whoever you are.
As I reached the end of the park, near E. 18th and Ave. C, I noticed that the waterside path continued, though quite bare and stark, and I understand it eventually leads to a very large park with lots of amenities, ball fields and such, which I also plan to check out sooner than later. But, this time, I crossed FDR Drive and walked into the wonderland of Stuyvesant Town, another place I've never been in the 23 years I've lived in New York. What an interesting combination of small-town and big-city living. There was a little bit of a canned feel to it all, but I couldn't help noticing that neighbors said "hi" and stopped each other for long conversations in a way that doesn't happen so much elsewhere in the city. In the middle of the complex is a little park, with lots of residents and others sunbathing, picknicking etc., and a sort of massive sprinkler-system kind of thing for kids to jump around in in the hot weather. I noticed a small stage was set up in the park. A surreal experience, Stuy Town in the pre-summer heat definitely took on the feel of an enchanted oasis, as much a function of my own rich and eccentric inner life as anything else, but nonetheless a very pleasant experience.
I exited Stuy Town at the 14th St. and Ave. A exit, and decided to head down to Tompkins Square Park. After that stint in Faeryland, I had a bit of a craving for the raw grit that still survives in the East Village. As I reached the entrance of Tompkins Square, I heard the enticing sound of congas, and I knew I was once again in the right place at the right time. I hit the public men's room in the park, first, and standing next to me was a full-on punk rocker, all of about 19 years old, but looking like it was 1981 with a blue mohawk, 10 or 12 piercings, authentically ripped (and authentically dirty) clothes; as I stepped out I saw a gang of similarly attired young men waiting for him. I moved along towards the sound of the music, which was vintage Nuyorican salsa; I saw a band on the stage near the south side of the park, but it became clear that they were still setting up and the music was a record (uhhh...mp3 file?!? who knows these days...) being played over the sound system. I found a good seat on a semi-circle of benches facing the stage, and watched as the band started to do sound-check. They were a diverse crew, ages ranging from 20's to 60's, many latino, many not. As the leader of the band, a sixtiesh guy with shades, a long gray pony tail and a muscle shirt with the colors of the Puerto Rican flag, and a Fender Stratocaster around his neck, took the microphone, he introduced the band as Santiago. He name-checked a few long-time neighborhood activists and gave a shout-out to the "all the Loisadas", and dedicated the show to a number of community musicians who have passed on. Santiago's sound was actually a blend of rock and latin music, some with vocals, some instrumentals; quite reminiscent of Santana, in fact. They jammed out quite a bit, and although the crowd was sparse, some people really cut loose and danced in the near-90-degree heat. Just as Santiago's set was ending, thunder started roaring in the distance. I hightailed it over to 1st Avenue and grabbed a taxi back to Brooklyn. Pretty tasty day, all told.